The main thing in Brittany is that it is not France. Well, not quite France. Okay, another France.More cities in the eastern part, Upper Brittany – Vitré, Fougeres, Dinan, Saint-Malo – correlate with the idea of French antiquity, which you observe in Burgundy or Aquitaine. But as we move to the west, everything becomes more strange, more unusual.
Start with the language; There are two of them in Lower Brittany: signposts and signs in French and in Breton. And if this ancient Celtic language finds a match with something, then on the other side of the English Channel – with the Scottish, Irish.
Houses with their exposed beams look like German ones, as if they had jumped over Paris and the surrounding area.
Brittany is the only province of France without its own wine. Here they drink Celtic beer, which is not similar to either Czech or Bavarian or British. Mead with the name you want to utter in a whisper – shook. Apple cider – sparkling and reaching 8-9 degrees, so it is quite possible. Strictly speaking, in the district of Nantes produced a good white wine Muskade. But Nantes is only administratively Brittany, historically – tangentially. But Muskade is very suitable for what makes the Breton region the best in the world to taste the lover of oysters. Fourteen kilometers north-east of San Malo – the world’s oyster capital, Cancale, and on the bank of the bay taverns I would like to stay forever.
This option is worth pushing into the retirement future, but for now go deep into the true Celtic Brittany, passing through the forest of Pampon, where the cup of St.. Grail, roamed the knights of King Arthur, where you visit the grave of Merlin. You can set yourself a goal, for example, searching for interesting calvers. This is a special Breton phenomenon: a granite statue of the Holy Cross (calver – Calvary), which stands apart near the church. Often these are multi-figured compositions, up to two hundred stone characters. The calvers served as visual aids to enlighten the flock.
In Brittany, it is difficult to get rid of the idea that these purely Christian sculptures are the heirs of the ancient pagan megaliths, stone structures 4-5 thousand years old. Their meaning is not unraveled, but it is clear that there is no practical use here – they were erected for a religious cult. Megaliths are found in Europe, and most of them in Brittany (near Karnak, whole fields of many hundreds of stones). And here, as nowhere else, you feel the connection of the times: how close we are to what is hidden under the abbreviation “BC.”
The sense of being imparted in time is conjugated with relatedness in space. For Brittany there is only America, and this clearly tangible vastness worries. It is clear why the most dashing corsairs were from Brittany, and two of them — Surkuf and Dughet-Truin — were erected on the walls surrounding Saint-Malo. From here, in 1534, Jacques Cartier left to open the mouth of the St. Lawrence River, that is, Canada. He really thought he got to Asia. A similar incident occurred with Columbus, which in no way prevented the historical fate of either Canada or America.
Brittany presents individual gifts to the Russian person. Under Ore you can put flowers on the grave of Sophia Rostopchina, the daughter of the Moscow Governor General, who became the famous French writer Countess de Segur. Under Konkarno is the palace of Princess Zinaida Naryshkina-Yusupova, whose architectural insanity cannot be imagined until you see. And where else can this be built if not in Brittany, which is not at all like anything.